NEW to LEDs? Common LED Issues and How to Avoid Them
It's so exciting to have new toys! Once you get them unpacked, hung, cabled and addressed, there are a few issues you might encounter if you’re new to LEDs, and the steps you can take to solve the problem.
Flicker or “steppy” dimming
LEDs like constant power. On of OFF. They don’t dim like traditional instruments. That work is done by the computer and the console. If your instruments are flickering, start be making sure you are on a non-dim circuit. If you are plugged into a dimmer, make sure it is “parked” at full on your console.
Is your address correct, or are you correctly patched? Many LED instruments have a strobe mode. If the number on the readout screen on the instrument does not match the number assigned to the channel in the patch, you may inadvertently turn on the strobe feature on your unit. Checking the address and patch are the easiest checklist items to start with right after, "is it plugged in?"
Your LEDs may not be registering enough draw. This won’t happen with an actual LED lighting instrument, like a Colorsource or a Flurry. If you are trying to use LED string lights, bulbs, or other effect type lights, it may just be too low a draw to trigger your dimmer. It will flash, flicker, or perhaps not even respond. You need a “ghost load”, something that will draw power, even a 40w work light plugged into the same circuit will fix the problem.
LEDs don’t match your tungsten white?
LEDs start at a very different color temperature than tungsten lamps. If you want that warm glow, you will have to correct for it. Newer white only LEDs often have a color correction function. Older units still have gel frame slots. Find a color you like (R05 is one of my favorites) and drop them in.
If you have newer white light units that have the ability to color correct (check the user manual that comes with the unit), find a temperature you like (3200k is nice) and record it as a preset. Label it “warm” and go from there. If you are matching other incandescent units, it may take some trial and error to get it right.
Students overwhelmed by too many parameters?
As we talked about in previous blog posts, even your simplest LEDs require multiple channels in your patch. These are called parameters. The intensity, color (or colors), and strobe all have parameters that must be assigned. If it feels like too much, go for the simplest setting.
Lock your first round of LEDs into a simple DMX mode (3–8 channels). Teach you students how to adjust intensity, change the color, and save specific colors and looks (often called pallets) so they can come back to those quickly while programming.
And really, most importantly, don’t be afraid to play. Don’t let the cost of the instrument cause you to take a “no students allowed” mentality. If you save your shows like you save your other documents, even if something gets recorded over, you can always revert to your saved file. Every modern console has an “undo” button as well. I use it often.
A Phased Upgrade Plan That Won’t Break You (or Your Board)
Think of your upgrade in phases, not a single capital campaign miracle. The cost of LED fixtures, let alone a whole replacement, can feel overwhelming.
Phase 1 – Taste test
4–8 LED fixtures in high-impact positions. Cyc lights or side lights where color is deeply impactful to your storytelling moments.
Upgrade or confirm your console can handle LED/intelligent fixtures
Phase 2 – Infrastructure
Convert a few dimmer modules to relay/constant power where possible
Add data infrastructure: better DMX distribution, labeling, maybe wireless DMX in tricky spots. Be careful, though. Range, drop out, and interference are still a thing. If you want to try wireless DMX on the cheap, try this $100 transmitter/receiver unit. I was genuinely shocked at the range (over 100’ through scenery) and reliability. I did charge it every night, so I never let it go to see how long the battery would hold, but it did last a 9 hour tech day.
Phase 3 – Intentional replacement
As incandescent lamps fail or fixtures become maintenance headaches, replace positions, not random units:
“All overhead color wash is now LED.”
“All backlight is now LED.”
Over a few seasons, you’ll look up and realize your rig is mostly LED without ever going dark or blowing the budget in one year.
Quick-Start Checklist
If you want this as a one-page “to do”:
✅ Map your current rig: console, dimmers, non-dims, and where you need more color.
✅ Pick one use case (cyc, color wash, or backlight) as your first LED project.
✅ Make sure you have constant power for the LEDs.
✅ Choose fixtures in a simple DMX mode and address them clearly.
✅ Patch, build 5–10 go-to looks, and let students practice running them.
That’s it. You’re officially “an LED theatre” without losing the warmth and character of your incandescent inventory. If you’d like help getting started with your LED adventure, including cost efficient retrofit options for existing instruments, reach out! [email protected]
